Susan's Camino De Santiago Pages

Susan Blogs About Our Camino To Belorado

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Friday 9th May 2008 - 1:51pm
Belorado in map square [D2]
by Susan
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Well gosh look a computer and this one gives me BAGS of time for my euro! Time for a catch up - I think we both found yesterday a bit stressful in different ways.

It started raining with a magnificent thunderstorm in Azofra which meant I found yesterday´s walk a bit of a long trudge through thick thick red mud, I think it was cos I had caught a cold from the snivelling spanish lady down the corridor... However Zoe said she really liked the mud and that it was a really nice colour!

However I really liked Santo Domingo de whatever yesterday after some unpromising industrial outskirts it was really pretty in the old part of the the town. I made Zoe go in the cathedral which probably wasn´t a good idea. I thought it was very nice and they had an exhibition of old religious art that I really liked - lots of sun symbolism in the gold and silver work - I guess they´re into sun in spain!

Thing about Santo Domingo De whatever is that they´re famous for having a cockerel and a hen in the cathedral. It´s to do with some story or other I´m sure you can google it if you´re interested. I´d actually read that they´re suspended in a cage which sounds pretty awful but actually they´re in like the poshest gothic hen house you´ve ever seen and apparently they only stay there a month before they go back to live in someone´s garden. As you can imagine though (and don´t get me wrong it sounds like a crap plan for the birds) Zoe was pretty horrified so I think that upset her from an animal rights point of view (I took care not to point out all the bull fight posters which luckily we missed by a few days!!!)

Also the hostel was pretty horrid yesterday - ridiculously overcrowded and I think that stressed both of us out and we practically ran out of there this morning! (So fast I think Zoe forgot her coffee which caused some crisis later!)

So we walked a bit too far today about 23km and now we´re somewhere on the way into Belorado (which sounds a bit like a bad BBC soap opera!) It started raining a lot on the walk today which actually bizarrely seem to cheer both of us up! Zoe said she really likes rain and it soothed her nerves and she quite cheered up once we´d been walking in the rain for a couple of hours! It was quite nice walking in a poncho again - somewhat nostalgic from france!!!

As long as it doesn´t keep on raining forever eh? Also I hear it´s ridiculously sunny in Britain....

Catch up on a few other bits and pieces:

1) I can´t remember if I said that we walked past the free wine tap on the way out of Ayegui and it was TURNED OFF! Apparently they only turn it on after 8.30am which was long after we strolled by! The Spanish guy behind us with all his bottles out looked most distraught!
[see photo]

2) We passed out of Navarra which was stunningly beautiful into a region called La Rioja round about Logrono. La Rioja was a bit less hilly and famous for it´s wine (which we never actually tasted!) and we spent a few days walking through miles and miles of vineyards with really rich red soil. Today we passed out of La Rioja to somewhere which called itself Castilla y Leon (though my map thinks we should be in the area called Burghos) and the vineyards stopped and the countryside became really pretty with rolling green crop fields and hills atmosphericly covered in mist!

3)I finally found a post office yesterday! Which meant I could finally post off the parcel with all my borken camera bits and pieces in and some stuff of Zoe´s she´s sending back. The guy weighed it and I think that´s taken virtually 1kg off my backpack weight which was such a relief! And just in time cos my knees basically gave way on teh last hill down to Santo Domingo.. I also found a shop that sold envelopes so I can start posting my postcard collection back to myself as well! My backpack has been so much lighter today!!!! :)

4)Talking of cameras technology hates me on this trip. I´m begginning to wonder if it´s some kind of sign that I should stay away from computers in the future? OR maybe that´s me reading too much into it!?! Not only has my camera broken, my phones is not sending out calls and messages but now even my cash card has stopped working!!! I´ve tried it in 3 card machines in teh past week and the first gave me no money, the second actually crashed (honestly the machine went mad it kept opening and closing and going nuts!) and the third said to call my bank. So I called the bank and much like 02 with my phone they were highly unsympathetic and said "there´s no problem at our end"... helpful when you´re broke in a foreign country!!! Don´t panic though - before you all start wiring me cash (joke!) I have a back up plan in the form of a post office card... good old post office eh?

5)OOh also this crazy creature crawled in during the thunderstorm 2 nights ago. It looked like a cross between a spider and a scorpion!!! I was just thinking gosh I don´t fancy spending the night with that thing when it took one look at me and did a 90 degree turn and headed off down the corridor... Oh well I thought... but the next day I noticed someone further down the corridor had squashed it!! No clue what on earth it was but maybe they did!!?!

Anyway... I just had my first bit of Tortilla Espanola in a bar! Yum!

Hoping to have a bit of an easier day tommorow to let our sore feet and legs recover a bit! :)

Take care folks!

Comment Added: Friday 9th May 2008 - 3:30pm
"Hope you have found somewhere to stay, OK? I found a nice place in San Juan de Ortega which is 12 and a half km from Belorado (for TOMORROW - Sat). It seems to be a posh kind of hostel - double rooms with bath and telly for 50 Euros:

I think you should treat yourself for one or even two nights. Have a rest day - it's not in a city so it's rural for Zoe but also there is a big monastery there for Susan to look at.

by Mum

Comment Added: Friday 9th May 2008 - 4:04pm
"Found this link to some pictures of places the girls will be passing on their way through Castile"
by Mum

Comment Added: Friday 9th May 2008 - 4:19pm
"Also if you are exhuasted on your way into Burgos (?Sunday) then there is this hotel on the very outskirts - I think you pass it on the way in - Calle Vitoria 261. Gets very good reviews. Price is 50/54 Euros for a double room (on me) including continental breakfast 'delicious' according to one Spanish reviewer. You can get the bus into town if you want to see the sights - allow 6 hours to see the Cathedral say the books . . ."
by Mum again

Comment Added: Friday 9th May 2008 - 4:20pm
"Sorry forgot to post link:"
by Mum

Comment Added: Friday 9th May 2008 - 8:40pm
"Yeah, what she said."
by Zoe

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